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Cake Tomate Pistache et Chorizo |
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The English word "cake" is used in French for a variety of baked goods made in a loaf pan – pronounced with a French accent, "cake" sounds roughly like "keck". Sweet versions are often studded with candied fruit (cake aux fruits confits) or flavoured with lemon (cake au citron), while savoury ones (cakes salés) can accommodate all manner of fillings – vegetables, nuts, cheese, dry-cured meat, or fish. Cut in slices or cubes for easy eating, these savoury loaves make frequent appearances on French buffets and picnic spreads, or as a finger food for the apéritif. Truth be told I often find them way too dry, each bite urgently requiring a gulp of water to wash it down, or a Heimlich manoeuvre if there is no glass within immediate reach. I myself baked my fair share of less-than-stellar cakes salés, but couldn’t quite let go of the ambition to produce a palatable one. I tinkered with many a recipe before I finally understood – "Eureka!", exclaimed the cook in her bathtub – that yogurt was the key to an ideally moist crumb. This version is a great favourite, featuring pistachios, sun-dried tomatoes, and chorizo in a flavour-packed ménage à trois. |
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150g all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 3 large eggs 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 60ml extra virgin olive oil 140g plain unsweetened yogurt (preferably whole milk), Greek-style yogurt, or buttermilk 100g Spanish air-dried chorizo, preferably spicy, skin removed if any, and diced (substitute cooked Mexican chorizo or pepperoni) 12 sun-dried tomato halves packed in oil, drained and finely diced 90g shelled unsalted pistachios, toasted (available from gourmet or natural foods stores, or Middle-Eastern markets) 15g fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped For the pan: 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 tablespoons sesame seeds – one to coat the pan, one to sprinkle over the bread |
Serves 8 to 10 as a starter or buffet item 1. Preheat the oven to 180º C. Butter a 24 by 12cm loaf pan, sprinkle half of the sesame seeds onto the bottom and sides (reserve the remaining sesame seeds for topping), and shake the pan to coat.
2. Combine the flour and baking powder in a small mixing bowl, and set aside. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, salt, and pepper. Pour in the oil and buttermilk, and whisk again. Sift the flour mixture into the egg mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until incorporated. Don't overmix the batter – it's okay if a few lumps remain. Fold in the chorizo, sun-dried tomatoes, pistachios, and parsley. Stir to combine. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, level the surface with a spatula, and sprinkle with the remaining sesame seeds.
3. Put into the oven to bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until the loaf is golden and a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean. Let cool for a few minutes on the counter, run a knife around the pan to loosen, unmould, and transfer to a rack to cool completely. Cut in slices or cubes just before serving. (The loaf can be made up to a day ahead, wrapped tightly in foil and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.)
Variation: I sometimes use dried figs or dates instead of sun-dried tomatoes. The same batter (from flour to yogurt) can also be used for endless combinations of ingredients: different nuts and herbs, olives, sautéed or roasted vegetables cut in small pieces, strips of ham or chicken, cubes of cheese, fresh or dried diced fruit, etc.
Wine: Montecillo 2001 Rioja Crianza (Spain, Rioja, Red) Spanish chorizo calls for a Spanish wine, and this one has a nose of black cherry, peppery spice, and leather. The palate offers similar notes, with nicely balanced flavours of cherry and fig. It is medium-bodied and tannic, with an acidity that responds well to the tomatoes. |
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