When I was eight years old, my family moved into an apartment that was around the corner from a fine Moroccan restaurant. It quickly became a favourite destination for last-minute dinner arrangements with friends of my parents’ – the restaurant had an impressive display of stuffed reptiles that kept us kids endlessly entertained – and on summer days, when the wind was blowing in the right direction, my appetite was teased by the caramelised barbecued smells seeping in through the open window of my room.
While my preference in those days went to the safe combo of chicken, moist couscous, and stewed vegetables, I have since developed a keen taste for the wide range of flavours that Moroccan cuisine has to offer: it is an elegant and generous cuisine that always promises to whisk you and your taste buds away on an exotic voyage.

The following recipe features lamb, cooked slowly with onions and plenty of warm spices. Served with tender pears and crunchy toasted almonds, it is a wonderful autumn or winter dish that gently combines sweet and savoury flavours. As is true of most stews, the longer a tagine cooks, the tastier it will be – it is in fact recommended to make it a day ahead. And although a tagine is normally served by itself or with rounds of soft flat bread, I like it with a side of couscous, to soak up the juices.

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large heavy pot or Dutch oven, until hot but not smoking. Arrange the meat in a single layer over the bottom of the pot without crowding (you will have to work in two batches). Season with salt, and cook for 4 minutes on each side, until the meat starts to brown. Set aside on a plate, and repeat with the remaining pieces of meat.

2. While the meat is browning, peel and slice the onions coarsely. Peel and mince the garlic. Once all the meat is browned and set aside on the plate, combine the onions, garlic, and one tablespoon water in the pot, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes or until softened, stirring regularly. Add the meat, sprinkle with the spices (from saffron to ground chile powder), and cook for 2 minutes, until fragrant. Pour in hot water halfway up the meat. Bring to a simmer, cover, and lower the heat to medium-low. Cook for 2 hours, stirring every once in a while, until the meat is very tender.

3. While the meat is simmering, toast the almonds in a large dry frying-pan until golden and fragrant, and set aside. In the same frying-pan, melt the butter over medium heat until it starts to sizzle. Add the quartered pears, and toss gently to coat. Lower the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for 12 minutes, until the pears are cooked through and slightly translucent. Keep warm.

4. Remove the lid from the pot, turn the heat up to medium-high, and cook uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring regularly, until the sauce is thick enough to cling to the meat. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning. Transfer the meat and sauce to a serving dish. Surround with warm pears, sprinkle with toasted almonds, and serve with couscous if desired. (The tagine, almonds, and pears can be prepared up to a day ahead. Cover and refrigerate the stew and pears separately, and reheat over gentle heat before serving. Keep the almonds in an airtight container at room temperature.)

Wine: Château Pradeaux 2000 Bandol (France, Provence, red)
This highly aromatic dish needs a dense, rich wine, and it is worth splurging on this Bandol: its grilled, gamey flavours are accented by dark, brooding fruit notes, and briny hints of roasted herbs.